10 Sites you may have missed in Bayeux

Mention Bayeux, the Normandy town, and anyone who was awake in their British history lessons will more than likely be thinking 1066, the Battle of Hastings, William the Conqueror and the famous tapestry that depicts this period in English/French/Norman history.  The Tapestry is on show in Bayeux and is one on the most visited places for guests staying at the gite.  I have been 3 times and it should not be missed as it is a most remarkable piece of history and craftsmanship.  However, do not think that Bayeux is just the Tapestry because this delightful town has so much more to offer visitors:

10 Sites you should not miss in Bayeux

1. Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux

This imposing building was consecrated in 1077 but has undergone many changes over the years especially after it was badly damaged in the 12th century.  It has close ties with William the Conqueror and is where the Bayeux Tapestry was originally hung.  Thankfully, it remained undamaged during World War II as after the D-Day Landings German troops quickly withdrew leaving Bayeux to be the first town in Normandy to be liberated on June 7th 1944, the day after D-Day.

2. The River

The River Aure passes through the centre of Bayeux.  On it's banks both the water wheel and wash houses harp back to an earlier time when the river was so much more important to the town.  Today they are both well preserved and worth searching out.  The water wheel is near the cathedral and the wash house close to the Tapestry Museum car park.

3. Old buildings

Because Bayeux was liberated from the Germans so quickly it survived the subsequent Battle of Normandy with minimal damage.  Many of it's oldest buildings still survive including this fabulous overhanging half timbered house dating from the 13th century.

A bit more hidden up a small side alley I also found this wonderful old building and tower, now sadly in a rather bad state of repair but still an impressive construction from the past.   I am guessing from it's height that land was expensive in Bayeux and hence tall buildings were constructed to get as much living spaced as possible from each square meter of land.

4. Building decorations

Throughout the town many of the buildings exhibit wonderful decorations and additions. These include ornate window grills, wooden creatures and small carvings.  The carving on the right of the first picture is a depiction of a person and tree from the Bayeux Tapestry.

5. Doorways

With so many other Norman towns destroyed in World War 2 it is difficult to say if Bayeux is typical of how the region's towns would have looked before the war.  What is true to say though is that it's buildings have some pretty impressive doorways that thankfully survive for us to enjoy today. Who would not want to have a school entrance like this.

I also love this large wooden door and wonder why it was so big.  Even the road sign next to it is from before World War 2.

6. Shop signs

I also love ornate French shop signs so whilst you are walking through Bayeux do not forget to look up and see how many you can spot.  From ancient façades, weathered by time, to modern glass-like signs they should not be missed.

 

7. Public Gardens

Situated on the edge of Bayeux these gardens are a little bit of a walk but I really do recommend a visit.  They are home to a tree designated as an "arbre remarquable de France" and all I will say is that it is a most magnificent plant, although at first glance it may not appear so!  I wrote about it and the gardens in this blog, titled Le Jardin Public de Bayeux if you fancy seeing what I mean.
 

8. Bayeux War Cemetery

This large cemetery is the largest Commonwealth War Cemetery in France where over 4000 soldiers have their final resting place including 388 unidentified bodies and just over 500 German soldiers.  It is a poignant reminder that whilst Bayeux survived the war without much damage fighting was long and intense in the weeks and months after D-Day and many soldiers lost their lives.  As with all Commonwealth cemeteries it is maintained in an immaculate state and has records to help visitors find particular graves.  It is situated next to the by-pass (D5) on the south-western outskirts of the town but despite the passing traffic it is still an amazingly peaceful place.

9. Museums

As well as the Tapestry Museum, Bayeux has other two museums and all three together make up the Bayeux Museum.  These are The Battle of Normandy Museum, close to the Cemetery and The Musée d'art et d'histoire Baron Gérard known simply as MAHB which is near the cathedral.  The latter houses 600 works of art, 1000 pieces of porcelain and lace (for which Bayeux is famed) and 800 archaeological pieces.  A joint ticket for all three museums is available at a reduced price.

10. Bayeux Markets and Shops

If you find yourself in Bayeux on a Saturday do head to the market on Place Saint Patrice where a large number of vendors sell wonderful, local, Normandy produce (7.30am - 2.30pm).  A second market on a Tuesday takes place on the Rue St Jean (7.30am - 2pm).  There are also other one off markets through the year including a Christmas market, Medieval Fayre and a summer braderie (second hand goods).

Christmas market - image from www.mairie-bayeux.fr

The main street is home to some lovely shops (I resisted going into the cookery shop when I was there as I rarely can come away empty handed!) but be aware that if you visit on Monday some shops and restaurants will be closed.  Many will not be open on a Sunday either.

For anyone visiting Normandy I absolutely recommend that you go and see the Tapestry.  But whilst there do spend a bit more time in the town as it has so much to interest to offer. For more images please do head over to my Bayeux Pinterest Board.

Have you visited Bayeux?  What did you most enjoy?

If you want to visit Bayeux and are looking for somewhere to stay our gite - Eco-Gites of Lenault - is just 45 minutes away.  It sleeps 5 + a baby and welcomes guests all year round.  If just 2 people stay we will reduce the price by 15% (T&Cs apply) and we have a code to give you 20% off crossings with Brittany Ferries.
 

Silent Sunday - October 18th 2105

Le Jardin Public de Bayeux

On Monday I took myself off to Bayeux for the day.  "Ah, to see the Tapestry" you may be thinking.  Actually no, not this time.  This time I wanted to see and photograph some of the less well known but equally interesting parts of this beautiful Normandy town ...and that included a trip to the Public Gardens.  Click on Bayeux to read the blog I wrote about the other sites I saw.

The 2.6ha gardens are on the outskirts of the town and were opened in 1864 after the land was donated to the town for the purpose of creating a garden to teach horticulture.  That initial remit changed slightly as it was realised that actually what the town needed more was an area for leisure.  Today it serves both purposes.  There are open spaces, benches and play areas for leisure and over 400 trees and many more plants for horticultural study.  A self-guided botanical tour takes you around the garden and the numerous display panels in both English and French give lots of information about the plants and local area.

Despite the lateness in the year there were still plenty of flowers to be seen in the herbaceous borders.  Some of these borders also contained interesting sculptures for added interest.  My eye was also drawn to the canna in the right of the first picture and the banana plants in the second which serve nicely to indicate the generally mild climate of Bayeux as it is close to the sea.  We would struggle to grow these in Lenault as we are further inland and at a higher altitude.

I particularly liked the way the gardeners had included some vegetables in their planting schemes and I was sorely tempted to pinch a bit of the purple curly kale and ruby chard for dinner (I did resist!)

 

There was also a small glasshouse housing a collection or arid succulents and cacti.  I have to say these do not greatly interest me but I know some people love them so I have included them if this is you.

However, the star of the garden for me was a tree.  You could quite easily miss this tree as at first glance it really does not appear to be anything special.  In fact it looked rather dowdy with it's pendulous branches not displaying much autumn colour and it's rather lumpy shape.  Don't be fooled, though, this tree really is VERY special.

It is a weeping beech tree. Walk along the path and step through the drooping branches ... 

 ... and this is what you will discover ... 

It was like stepping into a magnificent cavern.
It was like someone had turned the tree upside down and the branches were in fact it's roots.
It was so completely different to the outside view of the tree. 
It was absolutely calm under its giant branches; a place to go to get away from the world for a while.
Tom, when he saw this photo, said it reminded him of Time.

For me it is possibly the best tree I have ever seen.  In 2000 it was awarded the "arbre remarquable de France".  All I can say is that if you are ever in Bayeux, by all means see the Tapestry but do also try and make time to visit the Public Gardens and see this truly amazing weeping Beech tree for yourself.  I do not think you will be disappointed.

Some Practicalities:

• The Bayeux Public Gardens are open every day (9am to 8pm April to September and 9am to 5pm October to March) although they will be closed in times of heavy rain, when it is snowing or when the ground is thawing after a frost.  
• Dogs and bicycles are not allowed.  
• They are free to enter and there is roadside parking at both entrances 
• Address: 55 Route de Port en Bessin, 14400 BAYEUX (with a second entrance on Rue du Chemin Vert)
• Basic toilets on site but no refreshments.
• More details on the Normandy website, here.